We left Mike and Lisa's on the Monday, 4th February, and headed north and west to Lake Taupo, then south to Turangi, where we had stayed previously. This time we found the Turangi Cabins and Holiday Park and negotiated a berth there, in pouring rain. The next day we enjoyed a walk around Lake Rotopounamou, following which we drove out to find the 'Chateau', and up to the ski centre on Mount Ruapehu. The following day we returned here and completed a circular walt to the Taranaki falls, after which we finished off our half-eaten picnic beside a dam. Our final effort was to walk to the Soda Springs along one end of the Tongariro Crossing. We were bushed when we got there, (about 200m ascent over 3km) and not up to the ascent up the Devils Staircase to the South Crater, but felt that we had achieved something.
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| The Chateau Hotel, at Whakapapa, built in 1923 | Mount Ngauruhoe, 2287m, and the Devil's Staircase where we gave up | |
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| The 20m Taranaki falls | Mount Ruapehu and Tahurangi, 2797m, in the background, still with snow |
We fancied visiting Mount Tarinaki, formerly known as Mount Egmont. The obvious route on the map was to use SH43 - labelled the 'Forgotten World Highway' on one atlas, and 'Heritage Trail' on another. It was a most interesting drive through and around large 'hillocks' to start with. We had identified a picnic spot for lunch, and as we approached the road deteriorated, as we expected, to an unsealed gravel surface through an amazing river gorge. When we got there, the picnic spot (at the grave of the surveyor Joshua Morgan) was already occupied. Having driven in alongside their van, we had some difficulty extracting ourselves. The road continued through a narrow tunnel and across three more 'saddles' affording remarkable views (the last of Mount Egmont for the only time during this visit). We finally arrived at Stratford, and made our way directly to the camp site.
During the course of this journey, the bunk bed in the caravan had come adrift from its fastenings, and we were obliged to remove it altogether from the caravan pending repairs. We spent the day on Saturday exploring New Plymouth, on the coast north of Stratford, and looking for wood, glue and screws for the caravan. We visited the information centre, which also houses a museum, and spent a few minutes in the art gallery just before it closed. That evening we went to the Festival of Light in the park, taking in the ambience of people enjoying themselves and listening to music. On the following day, it was raining. We bought the tools necessary, and began the job of re-fitting the bunk bed in the caravan securely. This took all day.
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| At Dawson Falls, Mount Taranaki |
We left Stratford as planned on Tuesday morning in pouring rain, and set out south for Whanganui, a town at the mouth of a large river of the same name. Driving into Whanganui we were unlucky to get involved with the aggressive driver of a large articulated flatbed lorry. He came up alongside us in the right turning lane when we were stopped at traffic lights. As they turned green, we somehow managed unknowingly to take out his nearside wing mirror, and he then came after us with horn blaring. When we realised, and did stop, his behaviour was so threatening that we locked ourselves into the car and told him to call the police. Some kind onlookers in an adjacent office also called the police, and invited Mo in for safety, but the incident was very upsetting and frightening. The police attended, and seemed to treat the situation in a low key way, sending our accuser on his way.
When the rain eventually let up, we went back to town to have a look around, but soon returned to camp to enjoy a barbeque.
We spent Wednesday exploring up river to the Whanganui National Park. We were interested in a 'Skyline Walk', but when we found one end of the walk, it was projected as an 8 hour hike for which we had neither the time or energy. At the northern end, there was a 2-hour return hike to a viewpoint in addition to the long trek, so we decided to do this. The track started with a board walk through bush, then became well made up pathways. Where necessary, 'stairs' had been constructed, and board walk used to skirt overhanging trees. It was however quite steep and exhausting, and we were glad to reach a picnic table with a view over the river, where we rested. Continuing, the track followed a road that had been made by a geological survey team investigating the feasibility of a new dam during the 1960's. We achieved the viewpoint, at 240m above sea level, on the top of a ridge which Mo suggested might be the top edge of an old volcano. We could look down on both sides, behind us into a deep bush forest, and in front to a valley between the rims of our 'volcano'. We were pretty tired when we got back to the car, but driving further up the valley we were able to visit a Marae and also look over a restored Mill before returning to shop for and cook our supper.
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| The Whanganui river | Near the top on our walk along part of the Skyline track | |
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| A Marae at Koriniti, on the Whanganui river | The miller's cottage at the restored Kawana mill |
On the following day, we attended to chores in the morning. Chores is mainly Mo dealing with the washing, while I 'nerd', to take advantage of our unlimited wifi facility. At lunch time we made our way into town and parked, before picking up some tickets for a trip upriver on the paddle steamer Waimarie. She was built in England, shipped out in kit form, and assembled in Whanganui, where she went into service plying up and down the Whanganui river. She finally sank at her berth in 1952, where she remained for many years. Finally salvaged and magnificently restored, she re-entered service on the river as a tourist attraction on 1st January 2000. Afterwards, we drove out to see the Bason botanic gardens recommended by some English visitors we had met on the paddle boat. Although we were too late in the daty to see the conservatory, we drove around the grounds and walked in the 'Homestead Gardens'. Very definitely somewhere to spend longer next time around.
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| Paddle ship Waimarie | The engine room and boiler | |
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| Passengers enjoying the trip up river | A view from the botanic gardens |
We were away efficiently in the morning, and were soon on our way south east to Palmerston North. We skirted the town centre and headed through the Manawatu River Gorge, to Woodville where we picked up the SH2 north towards Napier. On this occasion we took the SH50 (a more challenging road) for a change, so approached Napier through the vinyards and orchards from a more westerly direction. By 3 pm we were at Clive Motor Camp, where we had booked space because of the Art Deco weekend. This left us time to go into Hastings to the bank and to pick up a programme for the weekend's activities.
We had an early supper, and set off into Napier, arriving in time to park on the beach before an aerobatic display by the RNZAF and a display team. A good proportion of the people had dressed in 1930's Art Deco style, and everywhere were magnificent old motor cars, a traction engine and a steam roller. At the 'sound shell' open air stage there was a band playing jazz. It was all great fun, and very well behaved.
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| A steam roller .. | Vintage car with dressed up passengers | |
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| A barrel organ - 2006 vintage | Part of the fashion parade | |
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| A fine example of a Rolls Royce Silver Ghost |
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| Queen Victoria berthed at Napier |
We only scratched the surface: there was a full programme for the week preceding, and culminating on Sunday in a church service in the cathedral with the RNZN band.
The band also played in the shell on Saturday evening, while we enjoyed a BBQ at Rowan and Jacqui's rented house in Hastings. Ruth and her Mike, Mike and Lisa were also there, so we had a good party in anticipation of Jacqui's birthday.
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| Working on the foundations for the garage |