Binic
Binic is only accessible just before and up until high water, and even then not at neaps. We arrived a little while before High Water, so that we would be sure of getting in, and were immediately given 3 green lights indicating that we could go through the gate into the basin. There were hardly any visitors, so we turned and berthed Fuga in the middle of the largest space available.
Binic is an old port at the mouth of the river Ic. From here, sailors used to go to exploit the Newfoundland fisheries in competition with the Basques.We were immediately struck by this delightful place. The mooring fee was relatively modest, only 12 Euros, and the new pontoon was fully equipped with water and electricity. A brand new toilet and shower facility had been built, along with a new harbour office, immediately adjacent to the gate.
The town had a good range of shops, with a supermarket within easy walking distance, and plenty of places to eat out. Across the river, there was a pleasant looking beach.
Shortly after we arrived, a large motor fishing vessel flying a red ensign called
'Scotch Queen' (registered in Lerwick) arrived and berthed behind us. However, we remained a little mystified, as there was fluent french being spoken on board, and a reconnoitre revealed a board giving her history in french, attached to her superstructure.
The next day, workmen were out all along the quay erecting tents, podiums and other structures, and flags started to go up. We then realised that there was going to be quite a party, so much so that when we went to book a further night we were met with doubtful looks. The Fete de la Morue was expected to attract 65 'traditional' boats of all shapes and sizes. We were occupying the designated berth of some large vessel that was expected at any time. So we immediately moved Fuga down the pontoon, and were allowed to stay. We would like to have negotiated longer, but felt we needed to be making progress westwards. In the event, no one else turned up that evening other than a small vessel, and in the morning when we departed into the fog, there was still no sign of the impending hordes.
We had remained curious as to the story behind 'Scotch Queen'. There had been a lot of activity all day, with (relatively speaking) youngsters masking up for painting, shopping trips, etc. and John decided it would be rude not to go and say hello. In the event, Tony Lambourn, her skipper, must have been thinking much the same. We met up on the pontoon and had a talk about Electronic Plotter navigation systems, and Tony said he would like a look at ours. So we spent a little while chatting over a drink, (this cost Tony some of the oysters he had set aside for his supper as they vanished in his absence). He has owned 'Scotch Queen' for around 7 years. She was built for the navy in the war, and subsequently was used as a trawler and as a dive support vessel. He now keeps her at Le Legue. He and his wife Judith live in France with their children, who are actively involved in the crewing of the boat.
Having got out of the gate the next morning, we anchored off the beach in the thick fog, hoping that the sun would disperse it fairly quickly. We were initially disappointed, then set out for the Isle de Brehat, and in the end enjoyed a pleasant sail. Around midday the fog lifted completely, just as we were arriving at Brehat.
We had met various traditional boats en-route, and when we arrived at Brehat there was a party in full swing. As the tide turned in their favour, so everyone up anchored and set off for Binic. It was a shame we felt we had to miss out on the fete, but another time it would be lovely to see the boats, hear the music, and watch the fireworks.
