We are spending the winter in New Zealand where Mike, John's son, and Jacqui, his daughter, now live with their respective other halves and families. We started our trip with short stays in Hong Kong and Sydney on the way out.
As the log has built up it has become a little unwieldy, so to make it easier and quicker for you the pages have been split up:
...and the story continues....
We set off the following morning along the now familiar route to Taupo, and found the free camping at Reids Farm on the road to the Huka Falls. We selected a pleasant spot, only spoilt by the remains of an open fire (not allowed), and litter comprising mainly beer bottle tops that had been discarded by previous occupants. We were however only yards from the river bank, by a swimming hole for the adventurous. After lunch, we drove to the Aritiatia Rapids and having parked up by the dam walked along to the vantage point in time to see the water released at 4 pm. It was fascinating to see the water level build and eventually encompass the rocks in its path. We made a brief visit to town, then returned to the camp site where we met a couple from north Wales who visit and tour in their campervan every year.
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| The Aritiata Rapids before... | ..and after the water was released from the dam |
The next morning, we visited a lookout over the Huka falls, and then walked around the Thermal site known as 'Craters of the Moon' - very different from those in the USA but very interesting. We then picked up the caravan from the camp site and set off on the relatively short (80km) drive to Rotorua.
We found a camp site where we had been recommended by one of the motor home campers we had met at Taupo, near the airport, although it was not on the route in as he had inferred. We settled the caravan, and took advantage of the facilities before heading into town to 'orientate' ourselves. We found the old bath house, now the museum, set in the 'Government Gardens'. The gardens and bath house were beautiful. We found our way alongside the lake shore, past malodorous pools of bubbling mud and hissing steam, to the Polynesian baths where we checked out the prices. At around 20$ a head you could enjoy a spell in one of the spa pools. We returned via the Pak n' Save rather late, so the BBQ had to be conducted in the dark. We needed to get some chores done in the morning, and at first it was drizzling, so it was not until after lunch that we ventured out. We drove up and around the Lakes, first Lake Okareka, then Lake Tikitapu (the Blue Lake) and then Lake Rotokakahi (Green Lake). We found the Buried Village - Te Wairoa, buried by the eruption of Mt. Tarawera in 1886 - although it was too late to go in. We then reached Lake Tarawera before returning 'home'. We were puzzled by the many houses for sale there: we supposed trying to cash in on increased values. There is loads to do around Rotorua, but it is much more obviously geared up for the tourist, and accordingly costs. We would like to do one of the Maori 'concerts' and 'hangi' (meals cooked with steam under ground) but on this occasion we feel disinclined because of shortage of time and funds.
We set off from Rotorua the following morning in reasonably efficient fashion, heading for the Coromandel peninsular. The roads were definitely a whole lot easier, becoming quite flat and straight as we travelled north. We stopped for a brief coffee break at a roadside picnic area, then pushed on so that by lunch time we had reached the penninsular and were on the coast road north of the town of Thames. We found a spot overlooking the sea shore where we could pull off the road and make lunch. It was at this point that we received a text message from Brian and Deborah, saying that they were abandoning the Coromandel and travelling south to Miranda (south east of Auckland). We looked it up on the map, and decided to head there as well. It was in fact closer than the town of Coromandel to which we were headed, although meant retracing our steps a little. We checked in, and a couple of hours later Brian and Deborah arrived in their yellow van (the blue one blew up near Christchurch and had to be abandoned). They were mystified about a text they had received from John at Miranda: it turned out to be Brian's friend and old colleague who happened to be in the same camp site! We enjoyed a convivial evening, the highlight being a dip in the hot thermally heated mineral pool belonging to the site.
Brian and Deborah had left the Coromandel because of a bad forecast, suggesting foul wet weather for 4 days. It was not wrong, as it rained that night, then set in during the day with high winds off the sea. While they set out for Whangerei, we decided to stay put, and enjoyed another dip in the pool. The weather remained bad for the next 36 hours, so we extended our stay again the following morning. At lunch time we left the camp to give ourselves a break from the four walls. We travelled north along the shore, turning inland at Kaiaua until we picked up the main SH2/SH28 again towards Thames - a round trip of some 120km!. Once there we visited Pak N' Save to replenish our stocks of fresh food sufficient to last us a few days. Once again we were able to take advantage of the pool, and John was allowed a session nerding via the wifi.
We left the camp site at Miranda, and travelled just a few minutes north, where there was 'free camping' on the beach just north of the Miranda seabird centre. We set the caravan up in the drizzly rain, locked up, and went up to Kaiaua. We parked just off the road into the village, as there were cars everywhere, and walked up. The Food and Wine festival was in full swing on both sides of the road. We paid our 5$ each entrance fee, and walked around the site nearest the sea first. There was a Maori war canoe there, and one of the skippers was explaining the points of interest, including the carvings along the side and the navigational methods used on ocean voyages. After that we crossed over to the 'pub' side, where there were two stages (one featuring an Elvis Impersonator), more stalls, including one selling paella which looked and proved irresistable, and a winery stall doing tastings and selling wine by the glass. Later we discovered it was better to buy the wine from the pub bar, and we thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to look, mix and mingle with Kiwis on a day out.
We enjoyed a slow start and set off from our free camp approaching midday, but we were soon able to retrace our steps to Thames and then north along the coast road on to Coromandel. We found the camp site at Long Bay, one of those that Brian and Deborah had indicated in our book. After lunch we headed back into town, found a hairdresser for Mo, and picked up some items to make life easier (e.g. a corkscrew) in the hardware store. The following day we were up early for Mo's hair appointment at 9 a.m. then returned to make up sandwiches. We set off up the coast road to Colville, then on to Port Jackson and beyond to Fletcher Bay. The road beyond Colville is unsealed gravel, and hugs the coast. Pohutakawa trees cling to the banks above the shoreline, and the road for the most part lies just inside them. Occasionally the road climbs up and snakes around the hillside, with scary drops below the unguarded and unfenced track. It was worth it, though. When we reached the end of the road, we found ourselves at a beautiful beach at the bottom of a valley with a stream running into the sea. After our lunch, we walked over to the start of the Coromandel Track. Over the first hill we found we were overlooking a beach, with a school of dolphins playing close in shore. We stopped, and watched them, as someone swam out to the dolphins and tried to engage them in play.
The next day we set off for the Driving Creek Railway. This was built by Barry Brickell originally as a means of getting clay for his pottery, and logs for the kilns, down to his studios. Now it has a life of its own, and has been extended up to the 'Eyeful Tower' where you disembark for a wonderful view out to sea across the Gulf towards Auckland. In addition to building the railway, Barry has re-planted his 64 acres extensively with native species, such as Kauri and Rimu, to replace the trees taken during the 19th century, and is also developing a wild life sanctuary to protect endangered species. We continued along the unsealed road up over the saddle and down onto the eastern shore of the penninsular. We found a magnificent beach at Kennedy Bay, although with limited access, and then stopped at a wonderful beach at Little Bay which we shared with half a dozen other people. John managed another quick dip, but the water was quite chilly. We returned up the valley, and then over the hills again to Colville, repeating part of the previous day's journey. That evening we walked up along the track leading from the campsite, past Kauri and Rimu trees amongst many others, and returned via the track around the headland.
We left Long Bay at Coromandel in good time, arriving at Hahei, south of Whitianga, around lunchtime. Later we walked from the campsite to Cathedral Cove. It was a hard walk, the track from the beach to the car park being particularly steep. Once there, we both had a swim, and took photographs, before returning back to the caravan. Cathedral Cove was indeed pretty and dramatic, but not as awesome as we had been led to believe. The camp site is situated just behind the beach, and has direct access to it.
The next day we drove to Ferry Landing, and took the frequent ferry across to Whitianga. This is a pleasant town, with a marina, and we mooched about picking up some reading matter for Mo, and cash. We had a drink at a bar/restaurant overlooking the river, then returned to the main street to get some fish and chips for lunch. On the way back we visited Cook's Beach, where Cook landed and observed the transit of Mercury over the sun in 1769, thereby fixing the longtitude of New Zealand! How did they manage to do that sort of thing so long ago: we are simply playing at navigation with our GPSs! The beach and river estuary leading from it was delightful. We then returned to the campsite, before setting out to Hot Water Beach in time for low tide. This was a really good fun activity, as everyone milled around digging in their chosen patch. Gradually people got their act together and formed small consortiums, digging pools that then were engulfed in the next high wave. It would definitely be better at Springs, rather than Neaps, but we were satisfied with our brief immersion in hot spring water.
March 1st dawned and it was raining and blowing hard. It did not take too long for us to decide to stay put for the day. We spent the morning reading. By the late afternoon the rain had eased up, and we decided to go out for some air and a change. We made for Purangi Winery, where we were very well entertained by Danny, as he poured taster after taster from their range of (mainly fruit) wines. Mo quite liked the Manuca Honey Liquer, so we settled for that. I had liked the Port, so Danny kindly put that into the deal as well. Afterwards we drove on to Cook's Beach, and went for a short walk in the beachside reserve.
The drive down from Hahei was very pretty, passing through a mixture of open farming country, with rolling hills, and tortuous and twisting climbs through hillside forests and reserves. The first town was Tairua, and we travelled on following the river estuary before parting company with the road east to continue to Whangamata. Both towns looked inviting and deserving of more time. Opposite Tairua, on the south side of the estuary we had read of an upmarket development at Pauanui. We stopped in Whangamata and bought some fresh sweetcorn to feed Mo's penchant for a BBQ'd sweetcorn starter, and were assured by the lady selling it we could get BP petrol in Waihi (to take advantage of the supermarket discount voucher). We therefore came to Waihi without unfortunately exploring the boating at Whangamata. We parked the caravan at the very pleasant and friendly camp site, where we were enjoined to go and feed the pigs and explore the duck pond.
After lunch, we drove into town, filled up with BP, and found the information centre. This was immediately opposite the old Victorian Cornish pump house used to pump out the original underground Martha gold mine: a fairly unattractive concrete structure which has been declared a listed building for its historic interest. A few years ago this was at risk of tumbling into the new open cast mine, but it was recently moved by the mining company, Newmont Waihi Gold, at a cost of $4M 300 metres to its present site on the edge of the pit around which much of the town is built. The hole in the ground is the largest such hole that I have ever seen, but is still being actively exploited and it is hoped expanded. On another corner stands a sole Kauri tree: this has been christened the 'Judge's Tree' on account of the preservation order ensuring that it has its space, and there is no doubt that the mining company try to minimise the impact of their activities through landscaping. The works to process the gold, and deal and treat with the tailings (slurry) are more extensive in area than the mine itself! Later we drove to Kitikati, where Jacqui and Rowan lived when they first arrived in New Zealand. The town is a centre for fruit growing, but also has been decorated using murals, sculptures, and poetry making a walk around very interesting.
The next day we planned a walk along the river gorge, the centre of the 19th centruy gold rush. We had a DOC map with details of the walking tracks, but had not formulated a plan at the outset, other than to park the car at the east end at the Waikino railway station, and walk for about 6 hours. There is a tourist train operating between Waihi and Waikino, although it follows the SH2 for much of its length. In retrospect we may have been better parking at the west end of the Karangahake gorge, where there is more 'scope' for walking.
We set out along the track, which follows the old railway line, now dismantled and the Ohinemuri river. Our first encounter with the gold workings was the ruins of Victoria Battery, the largest of the plants used for processing the ore to extract the gold and silver deposits. Next we hoped to see some water falls at Owharoa, the site of another major settlement, and workings of which the traces have all but disappeared. The path through the bush was overgrown and the signage to the falls was missing. We decided to conserve our energy, and pressed on with a slight feeling of disappointment as the traffic roared along the SH2 on the other side of the river. Our next deviation was to a quarry along a short bush path, where water now spills over the lip of the cut away rock into the stream below. Resuming our walk, we then came to a division in the route: we could either go over a suspension bridge and pass through a 1km long railway tunnel (that is lit) to the end of the gorge, or we could follow the river. We decided on the latter, and were pleased with our choice, because the river now parted with the road, and the path became much more interesting. It was however well made, with boardwalk, and even a concrete ramp at one point. The path led to where the Woodstock and Talisman batteries had once stood, then two more 'pedestrian' suspension bridges led to the Karangahake Walkway entrance at the confluence of the Ohinemuri and Waitaheta rivers. We ate lunch there, and decided to take the 'Windows Walk' up through a mining tramway tunnel overlooking the gorge of the Waitaheta River. This emerged into the gorge, where the Crown Battery and works had once been. Opposite us, a path led to a (vast) underground pumping station, which we followed. Mo did not enjoy the darkness of the tunnels at all, but we did see some glowworms! We continued to follow the path up to Dickey Flat, for much of the way alongside a large pipeline which fed water to the Crown works. Just before reaching our objective, we passed through another 180m long tunnel. Although straight, we occasionally lost sight of the far end. The floor was far from level and I was glad I had a straw hat on as an early warning system, as despite the torch Mo was using I could not see the lumps of rock sticking out of the ceiling. There is a DOC campsite at Dickey Flat, with a road leading back to Owharoa, but we faced a long exhausting climb up hill to reach the top of the saddle before descending to Owharoa. We were able to view the falls that we had missed on the way out from the road, and then rejoined our outward route. We reached the car after just about 6 hours, quite exhausted bit pleased with our day.
One of the staff at Waihi Motor Camp mentioned that rain was on its way. It had been spitting a bit, and as we drove west and north towards Auckland, the rain appeared to follow us. By the time that we reached Auckland, around lunchtime, it was raining heavily, making driving through the traffic along an unfamiliar urban motorway with frequent exits even trickier. We kept going, and north of Auckland, we were relieved to leave the SH1 for Orewa to find somewhere to park for lunch. We pulled into a large nearly empty car park on the beach at Orewa, where only the surf kite brigade seemed to be out enjoying themselves. Continuing northwards, we left the SH1 again at Kaiwaka and made for Waipu Cove. This was another of the camp sites Brian had marked in our book. It was a small site but very pleasant set beside an estuary right behind the beach and dunes. We were one of only two 'camping' visitors.
The weather was much brighter the next morning, and we set off northwards again. The first major town was Whangarei, and we made for the quayside area, where we found enough parking slot along the road to draw up car and caravan. We walked back along the river, looking at the cruising boats tied up there, some foreign, where we imagine Jemmana spent much of her 6 months in New Zealand. We even found the second hand marine store where Mike had sold his old rope clutches and bought the fishing rod that now graces Fuga's hand rails. Mo was able to pick up some second hand novels. We walked on into town, then back to Pak n' Save for some supplies, before having a coffee at the river side cafe restaurant. Continuing north, there was a lot of pressure from following traffic for much of the way, but we finally reached the turn off to onto the SH10 and then to Kerikeri. We were delighted when we found the very peaceful Pagoda Lodge campsite beside the Kerikeri inlet, and made ourselves at home there.
We spent the first day exploring locally, visiting the Stone Store, the oldest building in New Zealand still in use, and also the museum of a Maori village and native plants.
The next day we first drove east along the Kerikeri inlet, then back over to Pahia, spent some time around the town, then went to Waitangi where we looked over the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, the Treaty House, and other exhibits. This is where in 1840 the Maori chiefs signed the agreement to bring New Zealand under the protection of the British Empire. On the following day we returned to Pahia, parked the car, and took the ferry to Russell, the first 'capital' of New Zealand. We found the old church, Christchurch, (the oldest in use in New Zealand) and Museum fascinating. The town was also unusually tourist friendly, and had a number of bars and eateries.
On our last day, we first visited a farmer's market in town. We then drove north along the SH10, deviating along a 'tourist route' that took us to the beach at Matauri Bay, finally leading back to the old whaling harbour of Whangaroa. We sat there and consumed our picnic. We stopped to offer assistance to a broken down veteran car, and were recommended to divert into Mangonui, the home of the 'best fish and chips' in New Zealand. Having just had a late lunch we were in no position to test this theory, but the town was quaint and seemed reasonably busy: it would be an interesting place to explore on another occasion. The road beyond took us across 'Doubtless Bay'. The first part was a smart seaside resort, but later it became poorer, with the standard of housing deteriorating. We finally reached Awanui, where we had to turn south for home. This is at the southern end of the penninsular that leads to Cape Reinga and the North Cape, and is bordered on the west side by the Ninety Mile Beach. We returned to Kerikeri along the A1, a round trip of perhaps 250km!
We left the Pagoda Lodge and set out to drive west along the SH12 until we reached Omapere, alongside the Hokianga Harbour, with its fabulous views across to sand dunes opposite. Here the road turns south, along the 'Kauri Coast'. As we climbed yet again into another range of mountainous hills, covered by the Waipoua Forest, we encountered the place where people come to see Tane Mahuta, a 2000 year old Kauri. It was uncanny to feel that people were really quite in awe at the sight of a truly enormous living tree that perhaps dates back to the time of Christ. There were numerous Kauris here, and along the route: the majority elsewhere were taken for their wood in the 19th century, or were felled to make way for agriculture. The drive south was very pleasant, and it would have been nice to divert to the coast or elsewhere. We pushed on through Dargaville, the self proclaimed 'Kumara (sweet potatoe) capital' and then on through a flat river valley before making our way to Pahi, on the Arapao river off Kaipara Harbour, where there was a pleasant small camp site on the banks of the river. There we met up with a family from the UK, both parents being colleagues of Peter's.
The next day our route followed SH12 until it joined SH1 south, but at Wellsford we took the SH16 west and south, skirting the lower reaches of the Kaipara Harbour to Helensville. Mo found Muriwai Beach on the map, and so we left the main route to go there for our lunch. It was a great spot, particularly for surfers. We walked up to the Gannet colony, and watched fascinated as fledgling birds practiced flapping their wings preparatory for flying. Afterwards we made our way to the Scenic Drive that borders the Waitakere Ranges National Park west of Auckland. The views to Auckland and to the west and south were superb. We followed the drive into Auckland and found our way to the Avondale motor camp where we booked in for two nights.
The next day we took a bus into Auckland City centre, and made our way immediately to the Sky tower. The views over the city, and the surrounding waters and islands, were great, punctuated by the occasional 'jumper' who would be held suspended opposite the observation platform for a few moments before being dropped onto a mat 190metres below. We failed to get food in the cafe, so left and found a much nicer but more expensive restaurant at the harbour: the food and value for money were incredibly good. We watched two of the old Americas Cup yachts go out on fun charters, before walking up through the city to the Albert Park, where we picked up our bus back. After a tea back at the caravan, we drove to the top of Mount Eden where we watched the sun disappear and darkness fall over the city.
We set off south from the campsite, avoiding the worst of the Auckland traffic. However, there appeared to have been an accident on the motorway, as it was at a standstill, so we had to improvise a diversion. The rest of our journey was relatively easy, skirting Hamilton via a by pass route and then through Cambridge. We stopped for lunch beside Lake Karapiro, arriving back at the same campsite in Rotorua that we had used before late in the afternoon.