at the start of the race
We had had a very pleasant night in our anchorage, and were up and raring to go quite early for us. Unfortunately the light breeze was in the east, and we were headed south eastwards! We set sail, and set out to cross the Bonifacio straits, but with the wind shifting we were being set too far south, and chose to take a long tack up towards Bonifacio, before tacking back and across. Tactically I made a mistake by going close in to P. ta Falcone. We had quite an adverse current, and I hoped we could get out of it, but the shore is quite rock strewn there, keeping us into the stream, which seemed to be accelerated around the point. Eventually we put the engine on to get past the dangers. We had been talking about shopping for supplies in Palau, but as we had enough on board, and the phone was working ok with the internet in order to get a forecast, there was actually no pressing reason to go ashore. We pushed on, and in view of the easterly made for Liscia di Vacca, where we anchored close to the smart hotel there. On the way we had called in to the rather attractive but probably expensive marina Poltu Quatu, but their fuelling berth had already closed. It amused me that as the crow flies we were just one mile from Porto Cervo, where Kealoha was taking part in the Oyster regatta, but that our berth was infinitely cheaper!
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| Kealoha 8 leading the fleet across the line at the start of the race |
In the morning we had a leisurely start, as we had decided in the end to make a short day of it. We were planning to spend the night in Porto Cugnana, to the west of Rotondo. We set of just before 1100, with the intention of seeing the start of the Oyster racing at 1130, but had actually left it a little late. We managed to get through the fleet and position ourselves outside the start line in time to see Kealoha make a respectable start in Class 1, and chased them for a while to get some photographs, although not a patch on those that have appeared in the yachting press web sites since. After that we turned around, and headed for Rotondo for fuel. We could not raise them on the vhf, so I tried by Portisco on the telephone, and they simply hung up on me when I spoke Inglese. In the end we went into Portisco and filled up at great expense at 1.36 a litre, but the chap was pleasant and helpful which made up for it. We set off across the bay, munching sandwiches as we went, and decided to make what progress we could in the light breeze. We rounded Capo Figari rather laboriously, and it seemed interminably, although we were making 3 knots close hauled. After that we freed off to cross Golfo di Olbia and then inside Tavola. When we arrived there, the wind headed us, probably because of the island, and we motored the rest of the way to Brandinci, another glorious anchorage with beautiful clear water.
The anchorage at Brandinchi is glorious. The water is very clear, and the bottom is sand, rock and weed, but there is no problem finding sand to anchor in. It is sheltered from everywhere but the south east. As it happens, what little wind there was came from the south east, and that was the direction in which we were headed. I entertained myself on the computer, while Mo read. I had wanted a swim, but was put off by the sight of large round brown jellyfish drifting by. By the time I came too, realising that there was now a little bit of wind, it was lunch time. We had a quick lunch, and then set off. I had imagined that we might fetch down to La Calletta, but it was not to be. We tacked once out to clear some rocks, but finally gave up and motor sailed in the light breeze. Mo was delighted to find that there was plenty of room on the outer quay, or pontoon, we are not sure which. This is a free public quay, whereas the inside is let to various concessions, including the local yacht club. We tied up alongside with three other yachts, expecting there to be some wind the following day.
I had had a problem sleeping, and spent much of the night reading a Dan Brown novel instead, so felt in no mood to do anything. In the morning I went back to the bunk, but continued to read and did not sleep. Mo got out her sewing machine to carry out some running repairs. It rained quite hard as well, and water again came in through the front saloon windows. In between, no doubt, I played on the computer. The rain cleared up in the afternoon, and we set off into town to get some fresh supplies. It was our first excursion off the boat since St. Florent on the 16th, 8 days before. How sad an existence is that? We had talked about having a meal to celebrate our wedding anniversary, 21st August, but the town seemed to be very quiet now the season is finished, and there was nowhere that grabbed our attention. Eating out is expensive, and so often disappointing, that we are content to enjoy home cuisine. The Backgammon set has come out again after a long absence in the side lockers, no doubt in reaction to the long dark evenings.
The next day we had determined to be more positive. If the weather was stopping us (gales forecast), then we would do some jobs. There was a collection of issues behind the fridge, so we took that out. The automatic bilge switch had stuck on, and I had cut the wire to the bilge pump in order to stop it; not an ideal solution! I relocated the switch to lie fore and aft, insteaad of transversely, and fitted an overide switch. It is a mercury operated switch, and may not appreciate having been on a particular tack. I also found the problem with some of the lighting in the heads: a connector had been strained and come undone, fitting a switch to the cupboard light in the heads as Mo does not like the twist action. This took all day, during which the wind had howled with gusts measured reaching Force 10! It had not provided ideal working conditions: it quietened off in the evening, but we were not in the clear yet.
The wind came back overnight, but by morning had died down with occasional gusts. We updated our forecast, planned the route to Cagliari, which is straight along the coast for much of the way, and decided we would try to leave in the late afternoon. Then we set off for a brisk walk with the objective of buying bread. As it is Sunday, there was no bread to be had, but we had enjoyed the bottle of Cannoneau on offer last evening, so picked up some more. We came back via the beach road, but everything seemed depressingly quiet. The fishing fleet was in but deserted, perhaps just because of the weather and the fact that it is Sunday, and the dodgems were lined up in neat rows. Only the main street seemed to have any life.
We left La Calletta at 1645, to sail overnight towards Cagliari. The conditions were still very variable. We started off with just the jib, but that was not really getting us anywhere very fast, so we soon set the main with one reef. As we approached the end of the crossing of the Golfo di Orosei, a large bay over 20 miles across, it seemed we could not hold the course properly, (and so might actually impale ourselves on Capo di Monte Santu, so Mo had to come up in the middle of her watch below to help get the second reef in. We still continued at much the same speed, over 7 knots in some of the gusts.
The sail continued to be tricky. At least the waning moon eventually put in an appearance out of the cloud, but the wind would shift and go up and down like a yoyo, so that the sails continuously needed adjusting. At several points, the wind died away to nothing, so the engine had to come on, and it even managed to make its way from westerly to south easterly for a short while! We decided that we would anchor off the beach at Vilasimius, instead of beating our heads against a WSW F5 in order to get to Cagliari late in the afternoon. The forecast for tomorrow is for lighter variable winds, and hopefully will make it easier for us. After resting up for a while, we lowered the dinghy and had a go at cleaning the starboard topsides that were in a disgusting state from various rub marks, fender marks, and the generator exhaust.
It was a beautiful morning, but there was no wind. We made a leisurely start, and then set off for Cagliari under engine. Half way across the bay we met a yacht coming the other way. It proved to be Eirene, friends of Carol and Gus on Indigo, whom we had hoped to meet up with. Instead, we spoke briefly on the VHF. They were on their way east then north around Sardinia towards Barcelona for the winter. We arrived in Cagliari, and were met off the marina by 'Little Max' in the rib, and he showed us to a berth. Now it is a question of dusting off the jobs list, and getting down to the packing up.
There are a few familiar faces about in the marina, and some new ones. We don't have much time to get to know anyone, before we leave next week.