We set off from Nelson at a leisurely pace, and drove across to Havelock, on the Pelorus Sound. The journey was unpleasantly punctuated when we encountered an articulated lorry on its side blocking the road, with emergency services in attendance. We were directed past via the grass verge, but warned to look out for the cattle that had been on board and which were now in the bush. We took a look at Havelock Motor camp, but decided to move on to Smiths Farm, more conveniently situated near the end of the Charlotte track. We were made very welcome with banana cake buns, and booked ourselves in for three nights.
We packed a picnic, and set off up the road (50 km) along the peninsular towards the top of the Malborough Sounds. On our left was the Kenepuru Sound, itself an inlet off the Pelorus Sound, while over the hill on our right was the Queen Charlotte Sound. In many ways, the drive along the winding road was frustrating, as bush growing on the steep hillside below the road prevented you from taking in what would be wonderful views. We stopped briefly at Te Mahia and at Portage, before continuing along to the head of Kenepuru. Our road then degenerated into a gravel track, although not the worst we have driven on, nor was it dusty perhaps due to the rain overnight. Our hostess at the camp site had recommended visiting Titirangi, at the far north of the peninsular, 26 kilometres beyond Kenepuru Head. We skirted Mount Stokes, and stopped to admire the view on a couple of occasions. When we finally reached the saddle to look over into Guards Bay, and behind us into Port Gore, we understood why we had been sent there. Far below us, there was a fine beach, with a 4 km descent down to sea level. There is a camp site at Titirangi, behind the beach, and an old airstrip. Judging from the state of the wind sock, this is not now used as such. After lunch, we went down to the beach. It is quite beautiful, with a stream running into it. Honour demanded a (very) brief immersion, the first in the sea on this trip. On the journey back we visited Punga Cove, in Endeavour Inlet, one of the watering holes on the Charlotte Track.
Anakiwa is at the head of the Queen Charlotte Sound, and is the end of the 71 km Charlotte Track walk. We drove there, and set off up the track, with the aim of reaching the top of the ridge overlooking Mistletoe Bay, then returning. This was a poor man's day walk, not involving a water taxi up to Mistletoe Bay when we could then have returned all one way. Poor man or no, it proved to be a very enjoyable walk. We reached the beach at Davies Bay well within the advertised hour, and continuing on stopped for lunch at a convenient lookout with a seat provided. The track is not as well made up as the Abel Tasman track, but in many ways is similar. At this point it is predominantly a bush walk, and although you catch glimpses of the nearby water through the trees, the opportunities to enjoy the view are limited. After lunch we gradually ascended to the bluffs overlooking Queen Charlotte Sound. The views here were well worth the walk, but at this point we had to turn round, making a round trip of about 15km. We were quite pleased to get back to the caravan, happy with our performance.
We set off for the ferry at Picton along the Queen Charlotte Drive, and arrived with plenty of time to spare. We had hoped to do a quick 'ticky tour' of Picton, but Mo felt happier with the car in the queue for check in. Consequently we were left with little time after checking in and soon abandoned the walk the long way around the roads as too far for the time we had available. We were on the larger Interislander ferry, Kaitaki, and this was much more comfortable than her smaller cousins. The sun shone, and the crossing was quite pleasant. Once landed at Wellington, we decided to drive on up to Greytown, as we had passed through on our way down and thought that it looked very pleasant. The town campsite was very pleasant, the fee of $18 most reasonable, and there were only four other vans, one unoccupied.