After a swim, we left our anchorage at Sikias on the eastern extremity of the Sithonia penninsular, and set off south and west. We planned to go into Porto Koufos, as we needed water, fuel and to replenish our fresh food. Upon our arrival, we turned around to get our sails down. Whether it was this manoevre, or three high speed Italian ribs, we discovered our fishing rod was 'on the dip' with no lure attached. This was a pity, as not only was it the lure itself that we had lost, but an expensive US 'sinker' device as well.
Once we had negotiated the entrance between two high cliffs, we found ourselves in a large well protected natural harbour. We headed for the beach at the south end, marked as an anchorage particularly for southerly winds. We found that it was difficult to choose a spot to anchor with a reasonable depth, yet far enough away from the very steeply shelving beach. During lunch, the wind shifted sufficiently to give us one bump on the shore. Its not an ideal anchorage, and there is nothing to fasten a line to if you anchor off and try to take a line ashore.
After lunch and a swim, we went to investigate the quayside. We would need to get onto the quay in order to get a mini tanker to deliver fuel. The quay proved full of local boats, as was one side of the jetty. Practically the only space available for a visitor was already taken by a German yacht. At this point we decided to abandon Koufos, and to head instead for Marmaras.
As we were by now late in the day, Mo suggested we used one of the anchorages south of Marmaras for the night, and try in the morning. We anchored with a line ashore to a quay there, and enjoyed another swim, a meal and a quiet evening. It was of course too good to be true. Just as we turned in, a swell came into the bay as if from nowhere, and persisted for several hours. We were forced to drop our line to the quay and lie to the anchor, as the motion was quite uncomfortable.
We swam, then set off for Marmaras at mid morning, as we expected this to be the best time for finding a berth. We had a good look around in the harbour, but once again most of the space was taken by local boats, and there was nowhere on the public quay where we could see a reasonable berth. There was one spot near the end, but this would have been too far out for a minitanker to conveniently deliver fuel, unless he had very long hoses.
At this point we decided to try Porto Caras marina, despite our almost religious dislike of them. We found that there is now an alongside fuelling berth to starboard in the marina entrance. We discovered after fuelling that he does not take credit cards, and we had insufficient cash. He was however laid back and charming about it, so we paid what we could and agreed to come back with the rest. The marina reception seemed slow off the mark, and the pleasant Romanian who came to show us where to berth had only been there for two weeks and did not understand how to moor a boat (on finger pontoons with rather poor fixed hoops - ours was broken). He also enquired for us the rate, which proved to be 21€ light - it was actually 56€ in the office! We were able to fill up the water tanks, clean the cockpit, and do some of our washing. Our overall impression of the marina (itself, rather than the two posh hotels) is that it is run on a limited budget: half the facilities in the mens' were out of action and the pontoons needed attention. Bits of gear were lying about, and very few staff in evidence. Some smaller boats had been craned out. There was no chandlery although the supermarket seemed reasonable.
We took the dinghy the mile back to Marmaras, as it was reasonably calm. There is a ferry, but it costs 2.50€ each, each way. Having walked around and found only one small supermarket selling fresh fruit and vegetables, we made our selection there. We then found ourselves a table at a pleasant cafe restaurant, in the remaining sunshine, and looking out over the harbour. We treated ourselves to a meal, and returned by dinghy in the dark across to the marina. An expensive 24 hours!
We were aiming for the anchorages behind Dhiaporous, but having found a little wind, naturally from dead ahead, we had taken a long time tacking up around Ak Ambelos. Once around the point, we found that the wind had backed once more ahead, and with the swell around the headland knocking all the air out of our sails, we were obliged to motor once again. Once around Ak Psedhokavos, we decided that there was little fun to be had motoring the remaining 15 miles or so. Although Heikel refers only to a bay 2 miles north, there is a deep bay immediately north of the point, and it had seemed on the way south earlier that it might be viable. Our charts had no soundings but it appeared to be steep to. In the southern cove there is an industrial strength fish farming operation: it seemed possible but unlikely that there might be room behind the fish tanks. We continued in, and the bottom came up quite gradually so that we could anchor in 5 metres a long way off the beach. On the beach was an intriguing structure that might have been a shelter for cattle, or perhaps a 'restaurant' at one time. We had a swim and after sending off an e-mail to Arthurs for chandlery, hopefully for David to bring out, we relaxed, although Mo was on the wagon.
|
| Mount Athos, viewed from Sikias one evening |
We swam, Mo read and did Sudoku, and I had a go at painting the shelters on the beach. During the morning, yet another thunderstorm rolled around the surrounding hills. After lunch, we once again set off for Dhiaporous. There was no wind, and I got out the fishing rod again, bending on the 'planchette' from Brittany and a brand new posh Turkish lure. Another thunderstorm decided us to stay out of its way, and we went round in a large circle. Once we had taken the mainsail down, heading for Sikias, I discovered that the planchette and lure were gone! As the planchette floated, we headed back over our track for a mile or so, to see if we could spot it, but without success. Maybe a fish got it. These fish are becoming extremely dear when compared the cost of buying them! We anchored in Sikias to the north of the bay, as the wind was then northerly, but after supper moved over to the southern side: we thought it would be a little less noisy from campers. As it turned out, many of them were eating at popular tavernas on the beach ashore!
We had to motor all the way to Nisos Dhaporos, north along the shore of Sinthonia. There was one other British yacht (Ride of a Lifetime) anchored in the bay, and a smaller catamaran that appeared resident. Otherwise we were alone in the space, totally sheltered from all directions. There are a handful of houses on the island, some quite large, probably holiday homes, together with a few very small croft-like dwellings that are unoccupied. Some of the island has in the past been cultivated, with olive trees growing randomly. We took it easily, swimming and reading. The weather was conforming to a pattern: there was very little wind at all, from different directions, but at midday the thunder clouds would gather and we would be treated to thunder and lightning.
We were too late the next day getting going to get to the small village of Panayia before lunch time, so abandoned the idea. As usual, the weather deteriorated and during the evening we had some rain. A French yacht joined us and anchored nearby.
The difficulty in planning to see the monasteries around Mount Athos is that there is nowhere to stop or shelter half way, and the distances are considerable. Yachts with women aboard are said to be unwelcome within half a mile. Even the anchorages near Ak Arapis in the north are technically unavailable: Rod Heikell says you should be prepared to move if asked. It was no problem for British Tiger, but then Bill is hairy, unshaven and wild looking and cannot be mistaken for a a smooth baby-face let alone a female.
In retrospect, a passage from Ak Arapis, starting early in the morning, would give you better lighting and photo opportunities, as you would follow the sun around. We did not have the time nor could we justify the extra distance involved, but if cruising on the north coast and around the island of Thathos, this would fit in quite nicely.
 |
| Dhoheiariou monastery, from 10th C. |
We set the alarm for 0600, but woken by the usual visiting mosquito earlier than this, we had raised the anchor before it went off. Mo was still sipping tea in bed as we motored out of the anchorage to cross 17 miles of gulf towards Akti. It was 0830, and we had just had breakfast, before we reached our first monastery, Dhoheiariou, 10th C, and the second on Rod's list. The first was visible off to port, high up on the hillside. We continued, following the bays and probably well inside the half mile mark, dodging ferries as they called at each of the monasteries in turn. In addition to the older monasteries, it was interesting to see the many other houses that have been built. While there is road access to most of the larger monasteries, and some vestige of harbour facility for the ferries to berth, some quite large buildings appear to have been built without the benefit of any road access. Some were high up, and others in impossibly difficult situations amongst the bluffs and cliffs. We saw quite a large ship berthed in a bay below some houses, where there was storage on the beach but no obvious access to the settlement above. Yet again there were smaller dwellings clinging to the hillside.
 |  |
| One of the more impressive monasteries towers above the bluffs | One of the ferries passing 12th C. Moni Ayiou Panteleimonos, once home to 1500 Russian monks |
 |  |
| The 'port' at Dhafni provides a ferry terminus | We could see no road down, but a small coaster is offloading material for this community |
If you are interested in the monasteries, there are more pictures coming here soon!
There was no wind, normally a source of aggravation, but in this case we were glad of the opportunity to just motor along snapping photos as we went. Once we were around the south western point, Ak Pinnes, we hoisted the main, but continued motor sailing after a short try with the jib. At No. 10, Grand Lavra, said to be the largest and north of the south east point, Ak Akrathos, we turned around. We now had a 23 nm leg to arrive at our anchorage just north of Ak Psevdihokavos. Fortunately the wind filled in a little to F3 from the south, so that we could fetch our course, and at last the engine had a rest. We anchored after a very pleasant sail, just after 1900 hours.
The day started inauspiciously, with a major hiatus with computers and cameras. In attempting to unload the photos we had taken the day before from the camera, the computer refused to recognise it, issuing various red-herring error messages. It eventually came down to the state of charge of the camera batteries, and a bit of black art. Unfortunately attempts to resolve this upset the set up of the navigation program, giving rise to yet more heartache. We hardly had time to appreciate our lovely surroundings, but did eventually get into the water to swim and cool off.
After lunch we set off for Porto Kufos, in order to be there in time to do some shopping for fresh fruit and vegetables. We raised the sail in the shelter of the bay, and were soon shooting out at over 7 knots with the wind abeam. Once around the headland in clear wind, the wind dropped off and we were left with a beat to the south west at a much more modest pace. In time, even this died, and we had to motor.
As we went, we were debating pros and cons of various wintering strategies. If in Turkey, then where should we go? Or should we go to Greece. In this connection, Mike and Anna on Delphin came to mind, and we thought of dropping them an e-mail to find out how they had enjoyed their winter in the Peleponese: we had not heard from them for ages. So I drafted the e-mail as we sailed along, intending to send it when we reached Porto Kufos. Imagine our surprise when we found that the boat that had entered ahead of us, and was in the process of anchoring, was none other than Delphin. Later, after we had shopped (at the supermarket behind the quay) and had a hasty supper, we went on board Delphin and spent some time swapping notes. They had arrived that day from Nisos Pelagos, our planned destination tomorrow! Their route north was the same as our route south, so their advice was brilliant to have.
More computer grief, as I tried to send a fax to the bank, but I could not marry up the fax software with the phone at all. I gave up at 1115, and began the job of retrieving the kedge (we used it to keep us out of harms way overnight, as the anchorage had limited space and was very steep to and it seemed had a rocky bottom). Then of course we had to hoist the outboard and the dinghy too. There was a reasonable southerly breeze as we left, but this soon died, leaving us with variable F1 and a flat calm sea. We saw very little, a fishing boat, a larger ship heading east and south, and a rib. We were however repeatedly the subject of target practice, as the Greek Air Force, presumably, used us for repeated low level runs, passing close overhead and then banking sharply away. One higlight was coming across a large pod of dolphins lazing on the surface. When three of them did take off they gave us a wonderful display of synchronised swimming, coming clean out of the water for several feet. Only in the last hour did the wind freshen to F3, but from the SSE so that we could not sail. We were glad to anchor in Ormos Planitis, a large bay that opens up within a narrow entrance on the north end of Pelagos. We swam in 29 degrees C.
Against expectations, there was a lively north easterly wind when we came to in the morning. After breakfast we made our preparations and set off from our anchorage. Approaching the narrow entrance to the bay, we encountered a large motor yacht, and I made to leave him room to come down our port side, when he had cleared the narrows. First he continued head on, and then turned to port as if to cut across our bow for a while, and then came back onto his original heading, to meet us head on, making no attempt to avoid us. When the distance had closed to less than 100 metres I turned sharply to starboard, so that we passed port to port at about 10 metres. Mo was extremely cross at my language in response to the guy on the foredeck's polite good morning. I had taken him to be crew, but Mo thought he might be the charterer. If you meet Odyssey, sadly British flagged, avoid her.
We sailed down the north west side of Pelagos, looking at potential anchorages to use when the family are with us, next month. We turned to enter Ormos Kira Panayia, and as we did so our following wind executed a 180 degree turn, and came in from the south! We sailed for a while, but in the end motored down the channel between Alonissos and Peristeri. Bill and Angie spotted us and sent us a text. We decided that we preferred to anchor, so overshot Steni Vala itself, and anchored in the cove immediately to the south. Taking a line ashore proved to be a great hassle, as we had anchored too far out. It seemed necessary because of a local fishing boat that had a line ashore, and an Australian yacht anchored close outside us.
Eventually we got ashore, and Bill and Angie came to meet us. We had a tour of Angie's house, and enjoyed the evening in their company with a delicious meal and a drop of wine or two or...