Although we were officially checked out from Greece, we still needed some fresh supplies, so set off to find the supermarket that Tom on Freya had told us about, based on information from the tourist office. It seemed a long walk in the heat along the Lindos road, but we did eventually find the Bazaar supermarket. The shop was fairly small, but had 3 floors and a good deli, as well as the important stuff. We loaded the granny trolley and haversacks, and set off back. On the way we had passed a fruit and vegetable market, so stopped there as well. By the time we got back to the boat it was 1230, and Mo (rightly) questioned the wisdom of setting off on a long trip at 1400 hrs, which it would be by the time we had recovered the dinghy and stowed the stores, etc. I had a grib forecast that promised some wind today, but none tomorrow, and was keen to set off, which we did despite Mo's concerns.
On closer inspection of the chart I found an anchorage at Kizilkuyruk just inside the Fethiye gulf which would cut off 10 miles, so we aimed for that. In the event, a useful wind did not materialise quite as I had envisaged, although there was in fact F3 from the WSW, and we had to motor most of the way. We made the bay just before dark, expecting a quiet solitary anchorage. There were gulets anchored almost wall to wall on both arms of the inlet, and along the southern side too! There were also two or three yachts amongst them. We decided there was just room between a gulet and the rocks at one end of the southern beach, and dropped our anchor there. I swam a line ashore (the water was very warm at 29C), but had to lay the kedge out on the other side to hold us off the rocks. We had chosen the noisiest gulet: after supper they started dancing but stopped promptly soon after 10pm, and we actually quite enjoyed watching them have fun.
I woke at about 0530, as our neighbouring gulet noisily departed the anchorage. Looking around we were now almost alone, most of the gulets having departed, only to be replaced by a small fishing boat with three yapping dogs on board. It was a beautiful bay, and we took our time swimming and sunbathing, before setting off eventually at 1130. Lars on Sesam texted us to talk to him before checking in. We had a good breeze, and enjoyed our sail across the bay to Fethiye. We found Lars off the boatyard where he had been laid up, and anchored close by. He was quickly aboard and explained over a couple of beers the ramifications of the Turkish check in and visa requirements. We immediately removed our Q flag, and accepted his advice to lie low for a while in order to optimise our 3-month visa. That evening, we went ashore with Lars and with his Norwegian friends Tor and Torhild, from s/y Tayana, for a guided tour, meal and our first dolmus bus rides.
We needed some supplies, and Lars suggested we go ashore together. We set out for the market, via Captain Eddie, where Lars organised a replacement starter battery, then a cafe for mid morning tea. Eventually reaching the market, we bought a large quantity of beef, fruit and vegetables, and sat and had another beer. On the way back we stopped at the marina cafe/restaurant, for another beer, and soup for lunch. I went ashore and arranged with the hotel to berth on their pontoon in order to take on water. Mo saw her opportunity, and was soon soaking buckets full of washing that had accumulated. I washed down the deck, and helped rinse the washing, and then we filled the tanks. Once more, a fast trickle of water started to flow from the No 2 tank, as it began to fill, but stopped once the filling stopped. Again, we could not identify the leak. Lars came over for supper, and we feasted off dates, figs, followed by Greek salad, and then hardly had room for the beef casserole. Lars texted Bill on British Tiger our best wishes on his 60th birthday.
We had a relaxing morning, then set off at 1500 for the short trip to Gocek. We had had a tenuous wifi connection with either one of Yes Marina, the Meditteranean Hotel, or ECES marina at various times, and I had been able to read the Sunday news on the BBC web site. I had also had a reasonable Skype call to my sister Sue in the UK. We set off under jib, with the late lunch of Pizza sizzling in the oven, but the real wind outside was from a different direction and we needed a reefed main up. Gradually the wind died, and we finally resorted to motoring the last three or four miles. Gocek was surprisingly busy, and we had some difficulty finding a spot to anchor in a reasonable depth of water.
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| The greedy goat | Gulets everywhere |
We had a quick look inside Kapi Creek when we set off, then explored the intervening bays ending up at Wall Bay, anchoring close to the end of the wall that gives the bay its name. In the afternoon we set up to try to find the ruins of Lydae, where it is said that there are quite impressive Roman and Byzantine remains. We walked around the edge of Ruin Bay to the corner. Cleopatra is said to have bathed in ass's milk there, giving rise to the other name of 'Cleopatra's Bath'. From here the path is marked with red arrows painted on the rocks for a while, and then zig-zags traversing up the hill. We had spoken to one party who had been up there that morning, and were expecting about an hour and a quarter's walking. It was quite tough going climbing up the rough stony track, but periodically you could stop to admire the view over the bay. We began to lose confidence that we were still on the right path as red arrows had given way to an occasional stone perched on end. We scrambled to the summit of the hill, but failed to find the ruins, and decided to return so that we would be back in good time before dark. Talking to Lars later, we were perhaps not too far short of our objective when we gave up. He reminded us that if you are on the right track, you can take tea at the shepherd's cottage.
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| The ruins of Cleopatra's bath? | Lead up to great views over the bay |
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| ...but we failed to find Lydae... The restaurant in Wall Bay |
We had been told that Sarsala Iskelesi was not to be missed, and Rod Heikell liked Pilloried Cove in particular, so this was our initial objective. We planned to have lunch there. When we anchored between two gulets, we did not get it right (it was very steep to and we dropped to close in), and one of the gulet crews suggested we go further up. We had left our shore line fastened in an attempt to re-anchor, but gave up and did as he suggested. He was kind enough to collect our rope, and run it ashore for us, so glad was he to get rid of us! There were however some quite strong side gusts, and we were not very happy, so eventually abandoned our plans in order to move on to Tomb Bay. We found a spot on the entrance to the bay where depths looked reasonable, so we anchored there alongside another small gulet. This time we were successful, and so were able to enjoy the rest of the day relaxing and swimming. In the evening we took the dinghy around the corner into the bay, where we went ashore for a couple of drinks at the restaurant there. On the way we inspected the tombs carved into the hillside from the dinghy, but decide against mounting an expedition to go to see them at close quarters.
We left Tomb Bay and sailed across to Fethiye, stopping for a late lunch and a swim in Battikaya Buku, a bay just outside the Fethiye roads. This was on the pleasure launch itinerary, and boasted a beach with a slide tube down into the water. We anchored off the ECE marina, and later that evening went ashore to look around and have a meal. We visited the market, where the fish stalls were still in business, selling fish to people with the possibility of having it cooked for them in the nearby restaurants. We found a nice restaurant in the old part of town, and had a splendid meal of local dishes, with excellent service. Sandy picked up a highly decorated china bell for her mother at one of the many pottery shops.
We went ashore again, as we needed a few fresh supplies. In the end we took our time, and walked around the town again, stopping for refreshments at a cafe. We found out how to make Apple Tea, and picked up the freeze dried granules at a spice store. Mo was prevailed upon to buy a 'top' to wear with trousers (made in Thailand, we found later), and I picked up some fishing lures. Our departure was complicated, as we picked up a large rock in the anchor. It is a habit of the Rocna to pick stuff up from the seabed, which can be difficult to get rid of. We tied a rope around the rock, which allowed us to lower and so free the anchor. Getting the rock out of the rope was more difficult! Eventually we succeeded, depositing it close inshore next to the coastguard station where hopefully it will not cause other people the same hassle. The wind was light, so we had to motor across to Boynuz Buku, but for a while I attempted to catch a fish. The bay was quite crowded on our arrival, and seemed very deep, so we went right up to the end where the creeks entered the head of the bay. We anchored and took a line to the shore, confident that we had done a reasonable job this time. We were not expecting wind, just prolonged rain.. We did not go ashore, but were joined by two other boats who anchored on either side of us. We enjoyed a few glasses, and cleared the cockpit as we went to bed just in case things got wet..