Mo had been desperate to get her hair cut: her man in Cagliari had gone away, and we did not spend much time in 'civilisation' while in Malta. It was a bit far to go from the anchorage to Vonitsa with the small outboard, so we left our anchorage and anchored off the beach in Vonitsa, so that we could go ashore. Having walked down the mainstreet, we eventually found a hairdresser in a side street. "Come back in half an hour" she said, in perfect English, before we had opened our mouths! There was just time to have a drink in one of the harbour facing tavernas.
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| By popular demand.. | Mo's haircut! |
That evening was much quieter, and most of the yachts had disappeared. We swam and relaxed for a while. As we had not done any useful shopping the day before, but had spotted some good fish shops, we returned to Vonitsa for some fresh bread, fish and vegetables. We again anchored off, and took the dinghy ashore. Anything to avoid having to berth to a quay on our own anchor! After lunch, as usual the breeze having filled in, we set off to find a bay that had been recommended by an Englishman that we were anchored next to in Ay Markou. There looked to be only one answering his description, and we found a Swedish yacht anchored there before us, and later a French yacht that had been wandering around under motor returned and anchored next to us. All was quiet, and it seemed pleasant enough, though from the boat we could not determine whether there was in fact a taverna at the top of the hill. At midnight, we were left in no doubt, as a male singer began to sing Greek music to loud accompaniment. At 2 am he gave way to a lady, and the party was still in full swing at 0430!
After a swim and relax, waiting for the wind to materialise, we set off for Amfilochia, a town in the south eastern extremity of the Gulf. This was downwind sailing, and most enjoyable, the adjacent shore being steep to and sparsely populated. As we came into the inlet, there were two small oil storage and distribution terminals by the shore, and we saw one small coasting tanker dock to unload. There was a popular beach on the western entrance that would have provided an adequate anchorage with tavernas to hand. We anchored off Amfilochia, in 10m depth, close to the quay, and although there was not a great deal of wind there was a viscious chop with reflected waves back from the quayside. A Russian (?) freighter was berthed alongside the quay nearby, and the small boat harbour looked exactly that. You would not want to stay there, and we abandoned plans to go ashore as it would be too wet and uncomfortable in the dinghy. We had lunch on board, watched people watching us, and then set off to beat our way back out of the inlet, which was quite wide and steep to. Once outside, it was another 7 miles across to Menidi, but warned by the pilot that this could be uncomfortable, we anchored opposite, close in in the bay of Koprainia. There was a small fishing harbour nearby, and a number of people were enjoying the warm water (31C) to swim off the breakwater. It made an attractive, sheltered anchorage, if a bit off the beaten track.
The Mediterranean cruisers net (8122 kcs 0530 UTC) was carrying a forecast of a frontal disturbance with some wind to affect us on Tuesday and Wednesday with some potentially gale force gusts. We decided we should be at the windward end of the gulf, if possible. Accordingly we set out to sail back up, and once more the wind duly obliged by coming in from the NW about mid day. As we were heading for the NW corner, then this was inevitably a beat. However, conditions were ideal for a really good sail in a F4 wind. We had one near brush with disaster, as reluctant to give away too much to leeward, I cut inside the planned course as we left the anchorage. Whether it was silting from the Arta River, or inaccuracy in the charting, I suddenly noticed we were sailing fast with only half a metre under the keel! We anchored at the top of Ormos Salaora, close to the beach under the ruins of Nikopolis. This city was built by Octavian to commemorate his victory over Anthony and Cleopatra.
The spot we had chosen was an adequate anchorage, but what wind there was had shifted into the north east, so we had been subject to a lollop for some of the night. It was not attractive as a place to stay for a couple of days, in the event that the promised wind materialised. Accordingly we decided to return to Prevesas. I suggested to Mo we could cycle to Nikopolis from Prevesas (said to be worth a visit) although she did not seem very enthusiastic. We had an enjoyable sail, back around Ak Laskara dodging amongst the fish farm pens, then beating our way up towards our original anchorage just north of the harbour, where we found our way in quite a bit closer than on the last occasion. The generator had given up in alarm, so once settled we set about investigating it. It had done 100 hours since we last looked at it, so probably it was feeling lonely, or short of oil. It is such a palaver to clear Mo's drystores from the locker above it to gain access, that it is easily neglected. In the end, it had some oil but seemed very hot: perhaps the cooling water was temporarily clogged. It got an oil change while we were about it, though, and seems to be running happily. Touch wood! (I spoke too soon, it has just alarmed again, and I have shut it down!). Delighted to see Mike and Anna (from Cagliari) arrive on Delphin.
I awoke to the sound of the inverter's low battery alarm. Perversely, the generator ran this morning for over 5 hours, and recovered our batteries. I went up the mast to spray the wind speed anamometer, as it was sticking at low wind speeds, and to inspect a sheave that we thought was emanating graunching noises. On the way up, I found a wire broken on the port inner baby stay: perhaps a warning that the rigging needs replacing after 13 years? I've given the rudder post another injection of vegetable cooking oil, in the hopes of loosening up the steering: we were using a lot of power with the autohelm, and the steering seems to have stiffened up again. Mo is on board as I sit eating tapas and using the wifi at our friendly bar. Mike and Anna called by on their way back from the Port Police, and we enjoyed a glass or two of wine together.
Set off to get some fresh vegetables and fruit, as we had run out. Found Prevezas Yacht Services and posed the question of rigging, leaking dinghy valves, outboard propeller and spray hood, all of which ideally need attending to if we can get some action. Met up with Mike and Anna at the bar and had beer/wine and tapas that served as lunch. I went ashore at 1600 hours to research mobile phone SIM cards, and to find petrol for the outboard (which seems to drink it). I found out that the local telecom company needed a contract for internet connection, but found that Wind offered a prepaid SIM card with an internet connection deal that could be bought for 2 or 7 days. It is more expensive than the Italian TIM, but may prove to be the answer. I got back, grabbed some soup, and then we went to Delphin for drinks with Mike and Anna.
Inevitably, the internet connection via the new SIM card/mobile phone did not work as advertised. I went ashore to see if Prevezas Yacht Services had been able to come up with any proposals regarding our problemettes. They hadn't been able to. So I proceeded on to the Wind shop, and eventually persuaded the young lady to phone the relevant support number. I spoke to an English speaking support person, who gave me the necessary APN that I had been assured the day before that I didn't need. Thus armed, it all worked fine, and I returned to Fuga, but too late to talk to the boatyards across the channel about the rigging. We eventually set out after lunch, just after 1500. We had not reckoned on the flood tide against us in the entrance channel, and it became apparent after a while that we would not make the 1700 hrs bridge opening. When at last I became reconciled to that, we turned off the engine and enjoyed the sail under jib. We arrived with 40 minutes to wait, so anchored in the approaches to the bridge. Once through, we went alongside the fuel berth off Levkas town pier, and loaded up with fuel and water. I was a bit shaken that we were still not full having taken 140 litres, so we were far too near the bottom of our 160 litre fuel tank for comfort.
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| 'Tranquility Bay' and the mountains to the east |
We were having a late breakfast when Delphine came by on her way out from their anchorage in Ormos Vlikho. They were on their way towards Nisos Kefallinia, and promised a text message to let us have their location. We set off in the early afternoon, although the usual afternoon breeze had not set in. We sailed out between Scorpios, Onassis' island, past the chapel where Oristatle married Jackie Kennedy, and Meganisi to starboard, with the light following north westerly wind. Having lost the breeze altogether off the NE corner of Meganisi we gave up and put the engine on, but it was not long before the wind came up from the south west. Our intention had always been to head for Frikes on Ithaca, where Ian and Julie, friends from Lagos, had bought what they call their 'shack'. Ian was helping in a restaurant bar, and Julie in a cafe/restaurant up the hill. We had therefore gone the long way around Meganisi, and now had to beat our way south west to Frikes in a fresh Force 4 wind. We anchored off a beach at Ormos Limenia, just north of Frikes port.
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| Anchored off the steeply shelving beach | The harbour front and tavernas at Frikes |
We enjoyed a swim and a snorkel, then went off into the port to meet up with Ian and Julie. One coffee led to a beer and wine, to another, and then to some 'meses' - a selection of snacks or starters to share. When we returned to the boat, the wind was looking as if it might be coming in onto the beach, and we were a little close. We managed to raise the 25kg Rocna and chain and were able to manoevre the dinghy to deposit this further out in deep water, so that we now had two anchors holding us off. We were glad of this as the wind blew onshore overnight.