There being no particular hurry, we spent a while at our anchorage. The family went ashore to explore on the island there, and found curious paths made of scree material piled high that appeared to lead nowhere. We swam, and enjoyed the hot sunshine. I had spent the night trying to resolve some circular dream, and was incoherent and unable to explain myself. We found I was running a temperature which was lowered with a fan, and finally by the water, and I retired to my bunk. I was awoken when a wind shift blew the boat, and it was feared the rudder would hit the bank, so we set off fairly rapidly at that point. We passed by Sibenik for some photos, and then Peter suggested flying the jib in the now fresh breeze blowing from the south. With this we made reasonable progress up river. Meanwhile I started to have visual disturbances, seeing everything in terms of light green and brown, with no contrast, so I left everyone else to it. After we emerged into the lake below Skradin, Prukljansko Jezero, it was suggested that we should anchor, so we picked out and made for a spot off Rasline on the west side of the lake, where there seemed to be an indication of gradual shelving and sand. We brought up and anchored off what appeared to be a man-made beach at the village of Rasline. We all had a swim there, including the invalid, before making our way up river to the marina. Having sorted ourselves out, we decided on a walk into Skradin to make enquiries about the Park and waterfalls. In view of my dodgy state, Mo and I decided to leave the family to go by themselves the next day.
The falls party had hoped to make it to the first ferry, at 8 a.m., but in the event woke late and scrabbled out just in time for the 0900. The ferry is free, and you only pay a modest 80 Kuna per person fee to enter the park. You appeared not to be able to take a dinghy up as there was nowhere to leave it there while you went into the park. They very much enjoyed their visit. It paid off getting an early boat, as the falls were not too crowded, and they were able to go swimming in the pools below the falls. Later in the day it was much more crowded. They came back with stories of all kinds of fish, animals, and plants, and very pleased with their day out. There is a lake above the first set of falls, with a monastry on an island, and more falls above it. This would take longer, and would logically cost a bit more, as it involves a 2 hour boat trip.
On this morning I awoke with a painful little toe, an indication of gout, and accordingly I started to treat it. It was very uncomfortable, but bearable. Mo went ashore and procured some essentials, and paid for the marina. At 1400 hours we moved Fuga and anchored off the marina in a bay opposite, in order not to upset or create an issue with the very friendly marinero who had taken our lines the previous evening.
When the family returned, we set off down river. We stopped, at Mo's specific request, at the same beach at Rasline where we had anchored off on the way up, in order that she could cool off. She had been sweltering in the heat over a hot stove. After a short while we motored on down river, and chose this time an anchorage in U. Skar, behind the fort at the entrance to the river. It was awkward choosing a spot, as the depths shelved very rapidly close to the edge. We sat and enjoyed the sun setting past the fort.
We set off from our anchorage, leaving the river and setting a course north and west towards the southern end of Otok Kornat. At first there was no wind, but as we were clearing the last of the larger islands (Tijat, Zmajan and Kaprije) outside Sibenik, a breeze materialised, unfortunately from the north west. We set sail, however, and Peter sailed the boat using the tacks to sail around the various smaller islands obstructing our path, and I retired to my bunk. We arrived finally at O. Ravini Zakan, one of a group of four islands, and anchored. Rivi Zakan is a reception centre into the park, and we had not been there long when a warden approached and asked us for our permit. These are cheaper if bought outside the park (200 Kuna as opposed to 300 Kuna for our size of boat: they no longer charge per person). Find out more at Kornati National Park website. We of course had none, but were expecting to pay in any case!
The family went ashore for a swim. Tom (5)was not happy this year swimming off the boat, while it was impossible to keep Emma (3)out! At 2 years of age, Tom was fearless. He is a good swimmer for his age, and can do some backstroke, crawl and breastroke. While swimming to cool off I was concerned that my ankle felt strange: the problem with the little toe that materialised the day before had almost cleared up.Later in the afternoon, we set off under motor up the west side of O. Kornat, with the intention of anchoring in the Provincial Park at the south end of Dugi Otok. It would seem that there is a wonderful sheltered area with several anchorages there. We had been late setting off, because Mo and Peter had intended remaining anchoring overnight at O. Rivi Zakan and so the beach activity had continued, but when I came to I suggested we ought to put some miles in not to have to do too much at the end of the holiday. So we cut short our objective as the sun set behind the islands, and went into the anchorage at Otok Levrnaka. (We had passed at least two popular anchorages off O. Kornat itself, probably with restuarants). There appeared to be a couple of restaurants here, with music playing, and quite busy. Moorings were laid, but we opted to use our own ground tackle, as we had no intention of sponsoring the restaurants. It was a great spot.
I awoke with an agonising pain and sensitivity in my left ankle, so was now thoroughly incapacitated. I set a suggested route by entering waypoints into the computer, and returned to my bunk. Peter and Mo then conned the boat, while I slept.
![]() | ![]() |
I was blissfully unaware of the congestion in the narrow Prolaz Mala Proversa, that separates Dugi Otok from the island Katina which intervenes between Dugi Otok and Otok Kornat. Mo queried what I was doing setting a course for the Prolaz Mali Zdrelac, between Pasman and Ugljan. This is spanned by a bridge with insufficient air draught for Fuga. I had intended to visit Iz, and in setting up the course had become confused. The latest version of our chartplotter software, Chartwork Neptune Pro, shows land as white on the screen, and so it does the deeper sea. Zooming in, it can become quite confusing which is which, and where you are. Instead, Mo and Peter laid off a course for an anchorage U. Voderjak Mala, on the southern end of Iz, and the next I heard was the rattle of the chain. There was no useable wind.
There followed another beach expedition, although the levels of rubbish on the shore and the presence of sea urchins was off-putting.
Finally Tom came good and returning to the boat everyone enjoyed swimming around Fuga. When all were happy, we set off again to an anchorage at the top of Iz, that would position us ready for the final day's journey, and at the same time afford us with a much better sunset opportunity. We did not enter U/ Saline, but stopped short north behind the islands in Luka Osiljinac.
We awoke to a breeze, and this rapidly freshened from the south east. We set off initially using just the jib, under which we had nearly 7 knots of boat speed on a broad reach. As we approached Ugljan, the breeze died away to a F3/4, and boat speed reduced. So we set the main with a single reef, as we would need its help to sail to windward once we reached the Zadarski Kanal and had to make good to the south east. We had a pleasant sail, beating down to our lunch stop, U. Sutomiscica on Ugljan, and the chop that had initially been raised by the breeze earlier had settled. We arrived to find that there is now a new smallish marina there, called Olive Beach Marina, that appeared to be in the closing stages of construction. We anchored off, had lunch, and sent a shore party to the marina 'beach'. Tom travelled on Peter's back, and I am not sure how Debbie managed with Emma. Unfortunately we did not get a photo of them, but all you could see of Peter was his snorkel! Judging it was time to set off, we motored the final 6 nm to Sukosan, opposite which is the Marina Dalmacija. There was plenty of space, and we were soon docked as directed, and the taxi organised by the marinero through the marina office. It only remained for Debbie to find the last of the 'Geomags' that were scattered around the cabins, and pack their kit, have a quick supper, and squeeze in a shower, before the taxi arrived at the berth at 1830. There is supposedly a medical centre at Sukosan, and we took the dinghy across the bay to see if we could find it. This all fell on Mo, as I could not walk, and had to remain with the dinghy. She tried some enquiries, bought some water, but finally after two separate expeditions we concluded that the marina office were probably right: we needed a taxi!
We went over to the marina reception in the dinghy to get them to order us a taxi. This took some time as both staff and taxi number were busy, but once done we returned to await the taxi. Antonia, wife of Dennis who took the family to the airport the previous evening, turned up. She understood the ropes, and conferring with Dennis, they assured us that the local medical centre would be unable to help us. We needed to go to the emergency centre in Zadar: this proved to be around the corner from the Tankermerc marina. Antonia insisted on accompanying us into the centre, and door-stepped the surgery to ensure that they knew we were here, making sure we were not queue-jumped by locals! My diagnosis and treatment were confirmed by the doctor, who spoke little English, but one of the nurses was good. They gave me some shots in the backside, including painkiller and diuretic to relieve the swelling, and assured me I would be better in hours. Although we took our E111's with us (Croatia is seeking entry to the EU, some prices are in euros, and even some 'EU schemes' in place) you need to take your passport. If you do, the treatment is free, but I had to pay 130 Kuna, mostly I think for the drugs I was given. Antonia returned via the Pharmacy so that we could 'cash' a prescription, and then back to the marina. Sure enough, within hours I could weight bear, just, and the swelling was dramatically reduced. We went across to the marina reception to get a Vipme (phone recharge) coupon on which the marina wifi internet connection runs - it turned out the supermarket sold them - and had a drink in the bar.
In the days that followed, improvement was not so dramatic as it had been with the injections, and we remained in situ.
Antonia and Dennis speak good English, and live near the marina in Bibinje. On this occasion Antonia was a friend rather than a taxi driver! If arriving at Zadar or Split from the UK, then it is well worth noting their number: Denis Mikulic +385 (0)91 533 5771. Denis operates a smart 8-seater people carrier.
Enough of the soft life in marinas! We sat on the dock until Thursday morning. There being some marginal improvement in the ankle, we felt able to top up with water and cut the shore power, having paid up for four days. We motored out into the middle of the Zadarski Kanal in order to dispose of the holding tank's contents, then returned in and anchored south east of the marina, there to continue the convalescence. The bonus, we discovered, was the availability of a wifi hotspot which did not require the injection of cash! At least here we are able to keep a bit cooler, and dip off the back of the boat whenever we want to cool down. Mo found me a thick book to read, which has helped to tie me down. She has been taking the brunt of all the chores, etc. as I continue to be pretty incapacitated.