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16th May - 20th May, Ibiza

Formentera, to Cala Badella, Ibiza, 16th May

We set off at lunch time, and had great sailing with an easterly force 3 giving us a broad reach towards our objective, the passage between Isla Vedranell with its big sister Isla Vedra, and the south west corner of Ibiza, Cap Blanco. It was great sailing until we approached the passage, then the wind alternately died and then gusted from unlikely directions. It then appeared by magic to fill in from the north west. We had no alternative to starting the engine, and continued like this to Cada Badella, only about 3 miles beyond. When we arrived there were no other yachts anchored, but gradually it filled up.
Fishermens' huts in Cala Badella
Two charter boats crewed by Germans who were clearly on a corporate compulsory enjoyment expedition arrived, and rafted up close by. Then several other boats arrived. The Germans kept us speculating and entertained, and fortunately retired to bed not too late themselves.

Cada Badella, to Puerto de St. Miguel, 17th May

We went ashore in the morning, hoping to take some photos, and pick up some supplies. It was a typical tourist development, with some small hotels and villas around a sandy beach. It turned out that John was not feeling too great, and soon returned to the boat albeit with some water and beer. After a doze, John recovered and went into the water for a cool off before we set out at 1400 hrs. We managed to sail a little in the NW F3, before it died and we had to resort to the engine again. We took a look at our originally intended anchorage (assuming an easterly), Ensenada de Eubarca, and decided to push on an extra few miles to Puerto de St. Miguel, which we hoped would provide us with more shelter.
The north coast of Ibiza is largely unspoilt
We were fascinated with the coastline with high cliffs up to high wooded hills (when does a hill become a mountain?), many of them still deserted and unspoiled. Earlier we had caught sight of San Antonio, which is one of the two major conurbations on the island. For the most part, however, we were impressed with the surroundings.

Puerto St. Miguel to Cala Portinatx, 18th May.

Puerto St. Miguel was also a development around a pleasant beach. The cala was dominated by two large apartment block/hotel buildings that were set back into one side, while behind the beach there were further buildings and a number of shops. It was all on a bigger scale than our previous stop. One of the drawbacks was a guy who ran the launch for what we understood (according to commentary from the English guide on the glass bottom boat that visited) was a privately owned 'island', Isla Bosch: he had two fifty horse engines on his launch, and used them all on his frequent journeys to and fro. In addition it appeared he had two jetskis and another launch at his disposal. After going ashore, then resting up (JW again out of sorts), we left the anchorage at 1630. We headed for Cala Portinatx, that looked as if it would give us shelter in any conditions, with winds coming from various directions at from force 0 to 3. We anchored on the western arm of the fairly wide open Cala, close to the beach and rocks. In the night we were treated to a thunderstorm, and strong winds, that gave us a lively night, and in the morning we were left in the grip of a north easterly swell.

Portinatx, San Vincente and Cala Lleo, 19th May.

We decided to move before attempting breakfast, and anchored in the north eastern arm. Unfortunately, we were no better off, as the swell was wrapping around the entrance and coming up the cala, ensuring that we rolled as we lay to the north easterly. We abandoned our anchorage at 1515, making for San Vincente, some 7 miles away. This promised to offer shelter from the NE, and so it did when we arrived there at 1700 hours, just as the wind started to fill in from the SE! It was perhaps just a bit too late when we decided to try our luck at our fourth anchorage of the day, a cala at the other end of the bay which promised some shelter from SE. We arrived just in time to find our way in in the twilight, amongst what the pilot described as dangerous rocks, but not indicated on the chart! We were ok, as it happens, as having taken a dog leg around a wreck that was indicated, we arrived at the spot recommended in the pilot book if we had had time to read it! We were slightly unnerved by the breakers on the nearby rocks brought in by the still vigorous north easterly swell, but it was too late to do anything but stick it out. During the night, the wind varied all over the place, but Fuga rolled probably twenty degrees either way for most of the night. We found that lying front down, with knees braced to the side, we could just about stay put, but the constant noise, creaking and scraping of the chain on a rock kept us close to consciousness all night long.

Isla Tagomago to Porto Petro, Majorca, 20th/21st May

We were relieved when daylight came, but not in great shape for the planned overnight sail to Majorca. With the southerly, it looked very much as if the Buoyweather prediction of southerly and south westerly winds was going to come off. We decided to raise anchor and get out of Lleo as soon as we could, and did so, first making for an anchorage on the nearby Isla Tagomago, that looked as if it might give some respite from the easterly swell, and some shelter from the south easterly wind. This proved to be our first good decision for some while. We anchored in beautiful clear blue water, over sand, right next to the sheer sandstone rock face. We enjoyed a restful morning. It was only when John decided to cool off, climbing below the dinghy on its davits without the benefit of trunks, so getting into the water, that what appeared to be a sales convention for Fairline motorboats arrived at high speed, each dropping anchor as close as possible, it appeared, to Fuga. Why they could not have used the rest of the bay was a mystery.

We left Tagomago at 1700 hours and enjoyed good sailing with a broad reach from a SSE wind, that eventually encouraged us to reef at 1900 hours. This unfortunately deserted us, and did not materialise into a SSW F5 as we had hoped for. At 0200 the engine came on during Mo's watch, and we abandoned sailing, finally anchoring in Porto Petro at 0900 hours. We decided there was no point in pushing on the few miles to Porto Christo, and settled down to rest and relax for the rest of the day. There is a wifi access point here run by the Club Nautico, to which we have a connection, but the lady who runs the office is not on on Sundays and it requires a password. The rate in the marina for Fuga would be 57 euros for the night. The village, or town, appears quite pleasant.

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