We were up with the alarm in order to get under way, refuel at Tomas Maestre, and make the 1000hrs bridge out of the Mar Menor. This was all successfully accomplished, and with fuel and water topped up we set off. Once under way we consulted the pilot and decided that Isla Tabarca, off Cabo de Santa Pola, would offer an interesting and suitable anchorage for the night. We were promised SE winds for the duration. To start with, we had to motor, but eventually the wind did pick up and we made good speed, dropping anchor off the harbour (we think) about 1630. The pilot suggests a berth on the pier, keeping clear of ferries and fishing boats. We tried inching our way in, but ran critically short of water over rock.. so we aborted and anchored off.
There were three ferry departures soon after our arrival. We decided a stretch of the legs ashore was a must, and so launched our dinghy. A former pirate stronghold, it was indeed a fascinating place. There was a lot of building work (some new build holiday apartments) going on, and the church was scaffolded up. New museums appeared to be in place, and there were more (shut) restaurants per head of population than we can imagine anywhere else on earth!
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| The slightly dilapidated castle on Tabarca |
It was 0330 when John came too, aware of a different motion. Upon investigation, the wind had come up from the NE, and was increasing in strength all the time. We hurriedly got up, and pulled on our wet weather gear. We recovered the anchor with some relief. There was a lot of rock around, but we had managed to place it in weed and sand, and it did not get snagged. We set the jib, and with this alone made good progress to start with, resorting finally to motoring as well. We observed 30 knots across the deck.. We picked out an anchorage just outside the marina at San Juan, that offered shelter from the north and east, arriving there (13nm) just after daybreak. It was blowing hard when we arrived at the anchorage, although this was sheltered by numerous high rise apartment blocks (one 36 stories high). We then crashed out for a while. During the afternoon, John managed to 'borrow' someone's unsecured wifi internet connection, and through this we learnt that the wind was expected to go SE or S. Again we would be exposed! We mounted a shopping expedition to get some bread, and planned for a departure in the evening for Formentera and Espalmador. On the way in to the marina, we noted that there were no significant sized boats. The pilot suggests it can take a 12m boat, but the depth in the entrance was plumbed at only about 1.5m, and turning a 12m boat would be difficult.
We departed the anchorage at San Juan at 2100 hrs. The wind had not shifted SE as forecast, and remained doggedly at ENE, nor was there much of it. So we were forced to motor, or motor-sail for the greater part of the journey. However, in order to try to harness what wind there was, we did sail quite a long way out of our way. The sea was however quite calm to compensate. Finally, at about 1300, the wind freshened to a useable level, and we were able to turn the engine off. There ensued about 6 hours lively sailing, beating into the wind, until we arrived at our destination. We anchored in clear blue water in the delightful surroundings of Puerto del Espalmador. John remembers visiting on Kealoha V, and bathing in a mud pool. When exactly was a blur, but David informs me that it was 21 years ago. The place does not seem quite the same as I remembered it, but it is still unspoilt! There were a good collection of visiting cruising boats from various countries anchored with us.
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| The unspoilt anchorage and beach on Espalmador |
Fresh easterlies were persisting, as forecast. We launched the dinghy, and went ashore. John tried to find the mud pools that he remembered from a previous visit, without success. We enjoyed lunch and a siesta, then John had a swim. We decided to move the boat near to Sabina, so that we could forage in the morning, and perhaps get the bikes out for a trip around the island. John spotted a large Farr anchored off the beach, and set off in the dinghy in case it was Sweet Chariot, but it turned out to be the Pied Piper from London! We are now quite heavily into chess, John now being used to being beaten by Mo. Tonight was no exception!
We set off in the morning after breakfast for Sabina, and landed in the marina, tying up the dinghy next to a boat called Daylight that we had seen in Espalmador. We wanderered around until we found the supermarket, where we were able to find the important things of life, such as wine, fruit and vegetables. We returned to the dinghy fairly heavily laden. We were considering coming into the marina as we fancied a bike ride on the island, and made enquiries as to price. The low season rate was about 35 euros a day, and the rate for a night at high season for Fuga would be 180 euros. Totally stupid! However, some people obviously pay that much or the rates would not be that high. We had a discussion with another British boat on the way out of the marina: they were forced to come in due to lack of battery charging capacity. We had a lively discussion about solar energy, and wind generators. We spent the afternoon sunbathing.
We decided we would go for a cycle ride, and so loaded the dinghy with the two bikes in their bags, taking with us the spanner, pump, oil and other things that we thought we might need. At the beach we assembled the bikes, taking note of our surroundings. It was evidently a popular spot for nudists, but there was no compulsion! When we set off, Mo broke into a sweat behind John. It transpired that her brake cables were in poor shape, and the brakes were sticking on! We resolved this with some oil, and then sat down at a bar in Sabina to cool down. We cycled on to San Francesco Javier, where we looked quickly around the town. Most places were shut up, as it was Sunday. We then went east, to San Fernando, stopping on the way for our picnic lunch on the lip of an old quarry overlooking the lagoon of Estanque Pudient. The island is very unspoiled. There are many dry stone walls enclosing what were probably once vinyards and agricultural plots, but now mostly allowed to run wild, or with small houses. Our next port of call was Es Pujols, and this appeared to be a very pleasant place on the east facing coast of the island, with plenty of restaurants etc. in addition to lovely beaches. Heading back north, we then encountered the salt pans and cycled along the perimeter until we came to the turning for our landing beach. Back on board, we went for a swim. This was Mo's first venture into the water, and it was very brief indeed. The temptation of the sun was too much, and after tea we sunbathed and read. The chess game ground on to a draw: we need a book on how to finish without a queen or two rooks!
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| Taking a rest on our way through Es Pujols |