Tuesday 1st June
We needed to set off for Chateaulan, up the river Aulne, fairly bright and early as we had to be at the lock near high tide, some 12 miles to the lock. But because of the bridges and high tension power cables crossing the river, we needed to be sure of the height of the mast. We hoisted the boat hook on the main halyard, with a mouse line attached. JP took a photo with the digital camera of the mast head with boat hook erect, so that he could assess the height of the VHF aerial, and we measured the mouse line down to the water line. Having decided that the line, boat hook and extension amounted together to 20.2 metres, we felt able to negotiate power lines over 27 metres. Even though we had performed this pantomime, every cable was a nightmare, as it was impossible to assess from the cockpit whether or not we would hit the line!
Passing under the bridge not far above our anchorage, JP called for the binoculars. A notice attached to the bridge announced that the ecluse (lock) at Guly Glas was ferme. In hope, rather than expectation, we continued up river. The first reaches were between high tree-clad hills, and then the river opened up with rolling hills and fields. As it did so, the depth reduced to the point where we were dodging from outside bend to outside bend to find sufficient water. Eventually, the river narrowed just after the motorway bridge, and became deeper. This part was perhaps the most interesting. Fish played under the water, small ducks took off from the water and landed further ahead, herons took off and rested in the overhanging trees, reeds abounded either side of the river. Interesting birds were in abundance. Eventually we rounded the final corner, and came upon another notice. The ecluse was definitely ferme, apart from certain days. And sure enough, the ecluse was decorated not by flowers, as stated in the pilot guide, but by a crane and piles. Unfortunately, they are building a flood prevention barrage across the lock, and it is effectively closed until 31st October. JP had a go at O2, who had cut us off. Then we had lunch, rowed ashore, took some pictures, and set off back down river. JP decided that we should get some way towards Brest, and suggested we anchored in a spot he knew just outside the river. As it was blowing, and we had no distance, JP felt that the jib would do, rather than hoist the main. This spot was in fact about 9 miles distant, and with a NW wind that came and went, it took some time to reach our intended anchorage at Port de Tinduff in the Baie de Daoulas. Scrabble evens, Backgammon JP narrow victory.
Wednesday 2nd June
Leisurely get up, then JP looked at the chart and tide tables and decided that pain was not as important as getting to Brest for beer. Realising that there might be an issue about water getting out of the Baie, JP insisted on marking the anchor chain as he hauled it in. Once out of the anchorage, we ran into shallow water on a falling tide, and Mo registered as low as 0.4 metres below the keel. Fortunately the computer chart plotter showed us the way, and we found deeper water just in time. Arrived Brest, and booked in at the Capitainerie, JP went looking in vain for pain and chandlers etc. Returning to the boat and a hungry Mo, was presented with a very nice lunch of salad, corned beef and cheese. After lunch we got George's bimini out for the first time, and worked out we think how it was intended to work. It certainly looks as if it will do the job. We extended this, using Bernard's canvas tarpaulin, so that we had a fully covered cockpit to shelter from the very hot sun. JP tackled the outboard bracket with the router, while Mo defrosted the fridge and did some laundry. We then set off for the supermarche, where we filled a trolley. We bought a folding granny trolley to help with the shopping, and filled this, our two haversacks, and had a crate of beer and several bags in addition, so we needed a taxi back to the marina. JP helped with the vegetable preparation, (1st time, says the mate, since September - not true) and we updated this diary. And so to bed, too tired for Scrabble or Backgammon.
Thursday 3rd June
JP had a terrible night. When he went on his trip to the marina office, he was suffering from a slightly sore right foot.., not mentioned above. He had negotiated the hill up to the supermarche, and was still not in trouble. However, the right foot played hell in the night, and he thought he had barely dozed. Probably an exaggeration, but you know how it is. Mo gated JP, who was making a fuss. JP tried to tackle O2, and eventually got back on line with both e-mail and GPRS. The chap had got him to take the SIM card out of the phone and clean it, and this magic apparently worked. This meant that we had some e-mails, mostly viruses, but one from Diane needed attention. We then spent some time in the sun before lunch. After lunch, topped with water, and JP went to the chandlers on the way to the showers. Getting ready to fuel, JP was getting the petrol can out of the dinghy and cracked his forehead on the outboard skeg. Mo ran for cold compresses of water, ice and plaster, the latter proving to be unnecessary to Mo's relief. Just as we were circling to go to the fuel berth, a motor cruiser called Laura with some funny foreign flag, possibly Polish, dashed out of her berth and cut in front of us, forcing us to go to the pump out berth while she filled her copious tanks. JP was in considerable discomfort but refused to stay in Brest where he could see a doctor if necessary (£'s). We motored up the river L'Elorn, under the two bridges. 
The first had a central arch, and was reputed to be 27m, and the suspension bridge beyond carrying the motorway was higher. Nevertheless, going under was as usual a worrying experience because it was impossible to assess in advance whether or not the pilot book was correct! We picked up a vacant mooring, reasonably confident that the owner would not be back that evening. JP consulted JC via text, and was most put out when her diagnosis was gout, a possibility that the mate had raised earlier. We enjoyed the evening sunshine, and went to bed early. JP had a more comfortable night.
Friday 4th June
Both crew were lazy and although Mo bravely made two cups of tea, we stayed in bed for a considerable time reading. Mo was apparently trying to keep JP inactive to rest his foot. Whilst Mo was producing a very nice cooked breakfast, JP got the tide tables and went into planning mode. He realised that there was a very short window where we might get out of the Goulet de Brest before the tide turned too foul.. it being springs. So after breakfast, we left the mooring and motored as hard as we reasonably could out of the estuary. Once clear of the Goulet we made sail and turned the engine off. We had a bit of a beat up to the Pte de Toulinget, but once around we were able to go down the passage and past Les T. We raised Galatea on the VHF and she was ahead of us, going outside the Isle de Seine. At about this point we realised that we were going to arrive (if we continued) at the Raz spot on the turn of the tide, but if we continued as planned we would need to go up to Morgat, and then get up early in the morning. It seemed to make more sense to bash on, do the Raz, and spend the night at Audierne, 8 miles beyond the Raz. The Raz was a pussycat, and Mo was disappointed after all she had heard (though somewhat relieved, perhaps?). Nor had she wasted a seasick pill. So this we did.. arrived at about 2000 hrs, picked up one of the mayor's moorings and had a very nice supper of chicken tonight casserole from the magic cupboard having prepared a little while ago. Plan for tomorrow is cast off mooring 0800, hopefully before the mayor comes to collect his fee. No scrabble or backgammon, Mo wants to rest JP's foot..
Saturday 5th June
We awoke ok and had a quick breakfast before leaving the mooring before the mayor's man got to us. Initially, there was a light wind from an easterly direction that meant that we could barely fetch our course to a waypoint of Penmarche. Visibility was not too good either. As time went on the wind headed us and we had to make for a point well off Penmarche with a view to tacking back. The sun, which had been showing as a silver disc, then at last broke through and the murk and fog rolled back to leave us with a cloudless sky. The wind shifted again, leaving us able to make our course towards Benodet with ease, although at no spectacular pace. At about this time, dolphins made the first of two appearances, they played with us briefly and left as we were no fun at that speed. JP turned down lunch at 11 am on the grounds it was too early, so we had cheese and biscuits. Consequently, it was 4 pm when hunger finally got to him, and Mo produced the planned salad, meats, pate and cheese. We arrived at the entrance to the Odet at 5pm, dropped sails, and motored on upriver to find an anchorage on the rising spring tide. The pilot book recommended an inlet high up the river, where there was allegedly swinging room and enough depth, and with some difficulty we turned and made it into the entrance of the inlet. The incoming tide was rushing past, and at the same time rushing in to the inlet, and at the corner where it divided, it was bouncing back, before swirling away one side or the other. Once in, Mo's voice indicated her doubts about the situation, and it seemed inappropriate to explore this particular spot at springs, especially. Continuing up river, we began to run out of water as we approached the final run up to Quimper, although it was tiredness that really made us turn back - a very large coaster followed us down river later, and must have been lying to a quay up there. Returning down river to a spot opposite the chateau Kerouzien where we found a pleasant spot to anchor in the evening sunshine. Beans on toast for supper, and too tired for scrabble or backgammon!
Sunday 6th June
Awoke to a wonderful clear blue sky. After the 8 a.m. news from home (9 for us), we got up for breakfast in the cockpit, and for an update to the web site. We had to run the generator for some time to make up for the deficit due to running the pc yesterday for navigation, as we have no reasonable scale chart of the coast from the Raz to Benodet. While JP attended to computer matters, and filled in much of the gap on the diary from Mo's notes, Mo tackled the cumulated wash. Mo refused to launch the dinghy to run ashore to the delights of Benodet, as she was still trying to rest JP's foot, and we remained at anchor all day enjoying the sunshine and beautiful surroundings. JP even tried to write a poem!
Monday 7th June
Set off for the Isles de Glenan. Once out of the river had to beat against a south easterly F4 breeze. It so happened that we were passing Isle de Mouton at about lunchtime, and we spotted some masts anchored off in its lee, so we decided that what the French could do, so could we. We anchored in a pool off a lovely looking beach, north of the lighthouse, between two rock spurs. After lunch, we set off again, and motored into the pool off Ile St. Nicholas via the widest and safest route, St Pie. We were looking for an anchorage off La Chambre, when we ran rather too sharply aground, so after one more attempt at anchoring we gave up and picked up one of the buoys provided. JP wanted to go ashore to the beach to swim, Mo wanted Bernard's awning out to provide shade, so we compromised and JP put the shade up and dangled his feet in the water off the stern. Mo cooked salmon for supper, very tasty. Scrabble: Mo won solely due to JP's failure to get rid of his 'Q'.
Tuesday 8th June
A man arrived to collect 16 Euros for the use of the mooring, and Mo eventually emerged. It was a grey start to the day, with not much wind. For the first time for ages it was coming from the SW. We set off for Concarneau, and arrived about lunch time. After lunch, JP tackled e-mails, and got wound up as enormous files slowly downloaded over the mobile. We tried ringing doctors, but the first was en vacance and the second was en visite. So we set off in search of a docteur on foot, JP's very painful foot. The pharmacy was most helpful, and referred us to the premises of the first doctor who was en vacance. However, his list revealed that there was one particular street where there were 3 concentrations of docteurs, we now understand the phrase is cabinet de medecin! You might think you'd find one of these in your bathroom? A visit to a travel agent elicited a complementary map, by which we were able to navigate to the street in question. The first address appeared to be open, but unoccupied, and the nameplate was missing. The next, was all locked up, but there was a patient waiting for a special appointment (rendezvous). There was no life at the third, although ostensibly they were open. So Mo was left to waylay whoever came to the rendezvous, while JP went back to the open door. This proved to be an apartment block, but a nice young lady ushered him sharply out of her apartment, downstairs, and showed him where to look, across a car park, for the other. Luck at last! Although we had to wait a while, JP was eventually seen by a genial fellow who seemed to have no English at all, and who thought the matter worthy of some considerable mirth. After he had been prodding, poking and bending the foot for a while, JP explained that his daughter wondered if it was gout. Ah oui! La Goutte! He charged 20 Euro for his time, wrote a receipt out, and provided a prescription that we took back to the helpful pharmacist, wondering how much we would have to pay for two medicines. What in Mr. Blair's Britain would have cost about £13 cost just 6 Euros. We were so pleased, that JP decided a celebration was in order, and so we went into the old walled town, interesting but of course a tourist trap. Selecting a bar at last, JP being in some discomfort, we sat down for our second drink ashore (since UK), had a beer and vodka-tonique, for just 11.30 Euros! That put life into proportion! However, while we were there, JP insisted on seeing something of the old walls before returning to the boat. Scrabble: Mo won very comfortably
Wednesday 9th June
We were late up, or rather Mo was as usual. JP entertained himself following up on the e-mails received yesterday. Eventually we had breakfast, during which time the gas ran out, and there was an inquisition concerning the location of the third gaz bottle. This was located by Mo in the forward deck locker, when JP had convinced himself that it had been stolen because it was not where he left it! We launched the dinghy to provide JP with entertainment, but also to provide taxi facilities to minimise walking. We dropped off our accumulation of rubbish that we had from leaving Brest, as Concarneau was our first trip ashore for 6 days, and went to enquire about Gaz. This was not too far away, in the shipchandler's, piled high on the second floor. Health and safety would not allow this in the UK! We then took the dinghy to the fishing port, and left it on the wall while we went in search of the supermarche. JP took the wrong turn, but fortunately we arrived at the rear car park entrance. Loaded with beer, wine, winebox, whisky, and some food we returned to the dinghy. We had passed a street market stall selling fruit and veg., but while we were at the supermarche, they had gone home to lunch and Mo was forced to make a return trip to the supermarche to collect fruit and vegetables. Thus victualled, we topped up the freshwater tanks, cast off, and motored into the Anse de Kersos, just outside the harbour, and anchored. We then at last had time for lunch at 1600 hrs, and sampled the 8 Euro 5 litre box of wine we had bought. After lunch, Mo put all the shopping away, and then we read, virtually until time for supper.